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2000
Guy
Lacelle (Canada)
Guy Lacelle, 44, is a native of Hawkesbury, Ontario who has always
had a passion for the outdoors. He started rock and ice climbing while pursuing a Physical
Education  degree at the University of Ottawa. His first ascent was the 300-foot La
Congelée (W13) outside Québec City, which he accomplished with his partner in seven
hours - a climb he has since done solo in less than five minutes. After graduating in
1978, Lacelle instructed winter courses for Ontario Outward Bound.
His first trip to the Rockies was in 1983 when he repeated
many big ice classics and discovered the potential for new routes. Later he went on to
teach winter courses at Yamnuska Mountain School in Canmore, Alberta. In 1988, he stepped
back from teaching and guiding and adopted a new lifestyle - tree planting in the summer
months and rock and ice climbing in the winter. Typically, he’ll spend between 50 and
60 days on ice during the ice climbing season. Lacelle’s accomplishments are numerous
and span the globe. His peers call this quiet, unassuming athlete, who is known for his
physical and mental endurance, one of the world’s smoothest ice technicians. Some of his most notable solo ascents include: Repentance Super
(WI6 Italy 2000), Lower and Upper Weeping Wall WI6 and Polar Circus WI5 in a day (Canadian
Rockies 1999), The Terminator WI6, Sea of Vapors WI5+ and Troubled Dreams WI5 in a day
(Canadian Rockies 1997), French Maid WI6 (Canadian Rockies 1996), Curtain Call WI6
(Canadian Rockies 1995), Hydenfossen WI6 (Norway 1993) and La Pomme D'or WI6 (Quebec
1989).
Lacelle his highly motivated in the search of new ice and
is the author of many first ascents in North America and Europe. During the last couple of
years he has also established some modern mixed climbs. Lacelle’s
"base camp" is in Prince George, British Columbia where he lives with his wife
Marge Lachecki and five dogs. They work together tree planting five or six months of the
year, then part company when the climbing season begins for Guy.
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